Aleixandri Studio

One day, after receiving a call from his brother telling him that he was going to be an uncle, Marc Aleixandri (La Ràpita, Tarragona, 1996) decided to leave his dream job as a designer at Palomo Spain to return to his roots. The conclusion to that dream, which led to his involvement in the creation of such iconic costumes as those for Chanel at Eurovision or Rosalía on her El mal querer, tour, marked the beginning of another: Aleixandri Studio. With his first collection, Violetas —a tribute to Madrid's drag queens of the early 1970s—, he made his debut last February at MBFWMadrid —an event sponsored by Iberia— and won the award given in recognition of emerging talent. His grandmother attended the ceremony, the person who introduced him to the world of threads and fabrics when he was little. "My grandmother hadn't been to Madrid for many years. I think it had been since her honeymoon, so she came with me. When I received the award, she was overjoyed. She was happier than me!" recalls Marc. This recognition has helped him to overcome his imposter syndrome and reaffirm his vision of fashion, which is intrinsically linked to his identity and ideals. He is currently working on a new collection, which he will soon present at 080 Barcelona Fashion, while thinking about how to bring together different artistic disciplines to take his project one step further.

Your grandmother Rosa taught you to knit when you were little. Do you think your passion for fashion began then?
I'm not sure about my passion for fashion, but I do know I developed a passion for working with yarn and fabric. My grandmother had lots of half-stitch pictures at home, and one day I asked her to teach me how to make them. She did it together with my aunt. In the summers, I would spend my time knitting with my cousin. I also played with the typical cut-out dolls. What was once playtime has now become my profession.

You started out studying graphic design. How did you redirect yourself towards fashion?
I liked drawing, but I didn't know what studying Graphic Design involved. I had my doubts and it wasn't a safe bet. I was interested in illustration, but not so much in other things. I had always liked fashion, but I never saw it as a possibility until I started taking some elective modules. I realised that it encompassed everything I liked: the artistic side, the creative side, illustration, etc. When I passed by the fashion workshop, I would see my classmates and think: "That's where I want to be." In my third year, when it was time to choose a specialisation, I decided that fashion was my path.

Your first professional experience was as a pattern maker at Palomo Spain, where you stayed for five years. What were the main lessons you learned?
Everything was a learning experience. When you leave university, you're thrown into the real world. I always say that those five years were like getting another degree. I went from being a student at university in June to working with Palomo in September, and it was a reality check. I learned how to work in many different ways, and that helped me find my own methodology.  I also learned how to work for others. At university, you do what you want and how you want; you don't have to think about anything else. In the real world, you discover that not everything is so easy.

“I identify as non-binary and I can't put that aside when I'm creating. My designs are an extension of myself”

What motivated you to leave Palomo Spain and launch your own brand, Aleixandri Studio?
The main reason was the desire to return home to be close to my family and my surroundings. I spent five wonderful years away, which I am extremely grateful for, but I felt like I was missing out on things. I had been thinking about it for a while, but it wasn't an easy decision because it was like saying no to my dream job. When my brother told me he was going to have a baby girl, I thought: "I don't want to miss this." I quit my job, went back home and took a little break. That's when I started thinking about starting my own project, something I'd always wanted to do. I stopped being afraid and said to myself: "Let's give it a go." I still have time to make mistakes.

‘Violetas’ takes us on a journey to Madrid in the early 1970s. © MBFWMadrid – Courtesy by Aleixandri Studio

‘Violetas’ depicts an underground club that has become a place of refuge for drag queens. © MBFWMadrid – Courtesy by Aleixandri Studio

The muted colours and torn fabrics are reminiscent of suffering and punishment. © MBFWMadrid – Courtesy by Aleixandri Studio

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As head of Aleixandri Studio, you received the emerging talent award at MBFWMadrid for your Violetas collection. What did that mean to you?
I was not expecting that. My goal was not to win the award because my reward was already being able to present my own collection. On a personal level, it has helped me to get rid of my imposter syndrome and put aside those insecurities that lead you to think that what you do is not good enough. It was a real boost.

Tell me what talent means to you.
Talent is the ability to naturally do what others cannot. I also think that talent is something that is usually limited to the arts, but it can be broader than that. I think people from other disciplines, such as science, who do wonderful things that I would not even know where to begin, are highly talented. Everyone, whatever they do, can have talent.

Violetas had a very powerful narrative related to freedom, memory and identity. Can stories be told through clothing?
I don't know how to do things any other way. For me, fashion is just another form of art. Clothing is something we use in our daily lives and it is a very powerful platform for expression. I am unable to design a collection without that background, without sharing a message. I think not doing so would be to empty it of content.

“I would like Aleixandri Studio to be seen not as a fashion brand, but as an artistic project that brings together different disciplines”

Your ideals have a big influence on your creative process. Is that where your commitment to genderless fashion comes from?
I identify as non-binary and I can't put that aside when I'm creating. My designs are an extension of myself. A specific garment in a specific context can send a very powerful message. I don't know if fashion has the power to change things, but it can do its bit when it comes to raising awareness or supporting causes you believe in.

‘Violetas’ pays tribute to the drag queens who performed every night in the capital. © MBFWMadrid – Courtesy by Aleixandri Studio

In 'Violetas', sequins, pearls and lingerie-inspired styles take centre stage. © MBFWMadrid – Courtesy by Aleixandri Studio

‘Violetas’ claims back a derogatory term used during the Franco regime. © MBFWMadrid – Courtesy by Aleixandri Studio

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Continuing with the ideals, what role should young designers take on when it comes to fast fashion?
Fast fashion is not going to disappear overnight. It's rather idealistic to think so. We all wear it. I'm the first to admit that when I need a basic T-shirt, I'm not going to be a hypocrite. I do try to look for second-hand clothes in shops or on apps. Fast fashion has opened access to clothing, but we have reached a grim point with mass production that is unnecessary, inhumane and destructive. Fashion is one of the most polluting industries in the world, and as new designers, as people who come to contribute something, we have to make people think, make them see the importance of slow processes, craftsmanship and expertise. There is no need to buy three T-shirts a week or order clothes once a month.

You have always said that you would like Aleixandri Studio to be more than just a fashion brand. What would you like it to become?
I would like Aleixandri Studio to be conceived not as a fashion brand, but rather as an artistic project that brings together different disciplines, either on its own or through partnerships. Working together can contribute a great deal and take the project a step further. Its central focus would be fashion, which is the discipline I have chosen, but I am interested in other visual arts, such as performance. I am still thinking about how to combine everything I like.